Designing Place:
 
Architecture as Community Art

in Martinsville, Indiana
 


Martinsville Commercial Historic District

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Copyright © 2006,
Morgan County Historic Preservation Society
.  All rights reserved. 
www.mchps.org

Content written by:
Joanne Raetz Stuttgen, PhD
Kathryn Maxwell

Website Designed by:
Terry Bunton

 

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To Learn more about Martinsville History, see:
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Martinsville Commercial Historic District

The artwork on this sign was done by Chelsea Kouns as part of the 2004-05 "Designing Place" class taught by Kathryn Maxwell at West Middle School in Martinsville.

Click here to view National Register of Historic Places nomination.

Morgan County was established in 1821. The following year, Martinsville was platted and named the county seat. The settlement may have been named for John Martin, the senior member of a board of commissioners appointed by the state legislature to lay out the town.

As a county seat, Martinsville had an advantage over other Morgan County settlements. The earliest county roads led to Martinsville, enabling residents to pay their taxes and perform other necessary business, as well as establishing it as a market center. Professional men such as attorneys and physicians started practices here to centrally serve the people of the county. Martinsville stores, restaurants, inns and other ventures prospered as the county was settled and the population increased.

 Its position on the White River also contributed to Martinsville’s growth as a center of shipping for agricultural and industrial products in the early years of its history. Railroad lines--some of which were constructed in the 1850s but were possibly not operational until after the Civil War--would eventually link Martinsville with the entire country through a nation-wide system, increasing the town’s shipping capacities and encouraging the growth of local industries.

 From Martinsville’s founding, political and governmental activity has always centered on the courthouse square. The first permanent courthouse was begun in 1857 and completed two years later. The Morgan County Courthouse exists yet today as one of eight pre-Civil War courthouses in Indiana; it was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1996. The courthouse lawn, long the site of community festivals and activities, is punctuated with historic and commemorative monuments, including a Civil War cannon and mortar and stone tablets dedicated to some of the county’s notable sons, among them two Indiana governors, Emmett Forest Branch and Paul Vories McNutt, and  U. S. Senator William G. Bray.

Morgan County Courthouse (1857-59)

 The city of Martinsville is governed by an elected mayor and seven-member council. The Martinsville City Hall with attached fire station at 59 S. Jefferson Street has been the seat of city government since 1917. Prior to that year, the city offices were located in various second floor rooms in the commercial district.

 Martinsville City Hall (1917)

The third government building in the Martinsville Historic Commercial District is the U. S. Post Office at 10 South Main Street. In 1937, the Martinsville post office was the recipient of a WPA mural painted by Alan Tompkins of Indianapolis; the mural, “Arrival of the Mail," was restored (some say "redone") in 1974.

United States Post Office (1935) and WPA mural (1937). For more about Indiana's post office murals, see A Simple and Vital Design (1995) by John C. Carlisle. 

 Since the founding of Martinsville, commercial activity has always centered on the courthouse square. Nineteenth century Martinsville businesses included those of the type commonly found in small county seats, including clothing and shoe stores, drygoods stores, jewelry stores, hardware stores, banks, restaurants, groceries, meat markets, bakeries, hotels and liveries.

 Many of these businesses thrived for decades on the patronage of wealthy visitors to Martinsville’s many sanitariums. During the first half of the twentieth century, Martinsville was well-known as one of the nation’s leading health resorts. The discovery of mineral water in 1887 led to the development of Martinsville’s eleven sanitariums, whose guests came from all parts of the world. Many of the sanitariums were located just outside the courthouse square. 

 Martinsville’s identification as a city of sanitariums is reflected in the large neon sign (c.1930) on the roof of the Union Block in the commercial district, which reads “MARTINSVILLE CITY OF MINERAL WATER.” Another nickname, one that is still used for the city’s high school athletic teams is “Artesians”--”Arties” for short.

Neon sign (c.1930). Restored 2003 (but no longer operational).

 Because of the sanitariums, certain types of commercial businesses were particularly successful. Gift shops and clothing stores, especially for women and children, for example, were among those that prospered. Martinsville also had a surprising number of motion picture venues, especially in the first decade of the twentieth century when this form of entertainment was still a novelty. Other entertainment and recreation facilities in the commercial district included roller skating rinks and bowling alleys, pool halls and taverns. Seasonal festivities such as Fourth of July gatherings, carnivals and circuses, the county’s centennial celebration in 1922, political rallies and a variety of commemorative activities have also traditionally taken place on the courthouse lawn and surrounding streets.

 Super Sports Supply, 59 East Washington Street, originated as Switow's Dream Theater in 1914. The building was remodeled for the first time in 1927 and became the Grace Theater. After a fire in 1939, the theater underwent extensive remodeling before being renamed the Indiana Theater.

 Locally-owned eateries--cafes, grills, confectioneries, bakeries, ice cream parlors--also thrived on the patronage of sanitarium guests, who often visited with the locals and other guests while strolling, shopping and eating out. In this way, business owners successfully built up a loyal clientele. Such was the case with one of Martinsville’s best-loved businesses, the Martinsville Candy Kitchen, started by James Zapapas in 1919. Located on Main Street, the Candy Kitchen featured handmade candies, hand-dipped chocolates, ice cream treats, plate lunches and a unique specialty still made today: hand-twisted candy canes. It was very common for sanitarium guests to stop in for ice cream treats or their favorite candy and order several pounds of “Jimmy the Greek’s” specialties to be shipped home to family and friends.

 The Martinsville Candy Kitchen was moved to 90 North Main Street in 1978.

 The seasonal influx of visitors to Martinsville demanded a large amount of temporary residential facilities. Boarding houses, private homes opened as guest houses and hotels were all quickly established to fill the need. Among those found in the Martinsville Commercial Historic District were the Mason House/Grand Hotel on the corner of Main and Washington Street. Occupying sites in the immediate proximity to these businesses were livery stables, which thrived by transporting sanitarium guests and their luggage to and from the sanitariums and depot, downtown commercial district, city churches and resort, picnic and fishing sites on the White River a few miles north.

 The Mason House/Grand Hotel is now home to the VIP Print Shop and Berries and Ivy Country Store.

Perhaps the best-represented profession in Martinsville during the sanitarium area (1887-1950) was that of physician, with many of the doctors being associated with the sanitariums. Many had their offices in the various sanitariums. Others had offices in second floor rooms scattered throughout the downtown area.

 A large number of pharmacies supplemented the physicians; among the notable were Tarleton Drugs, the original occupant of the Moore/Kivett’s Five and Ten Cent Store located at 110 North Main Street, and Rigrish Drug Company, later Siler’s, at 142 North Main Street.

Tarleton Drugstore, later Kivett's 5 & 10
(1860/1900)

Advertising mural for Rigrish Drug Company
 on north wall of 142 North Main Street

The presence of the Morgan County Courthouse led to an abundance of professional offices in the commercial district. Among the attorneys who hung their shingle in Martinsville were Emmett Forest Branch, governor of Indiana from 1924-1925 (he completed the final term of Warren T. McCray, who resigned); Paul Vories McNutt, who served as Indiana governor from 1933-1937 and held many national political offices through the 1940s; William G. Bray, U. S. Senator from 1951-1975; and John E. Hurt, a leader in the Indiana Democratic party from 1932 to the mid-1970s.

 Fraternal orders are also well-represented in the Martinsville Historic Commercial District, with the largest occupying upper floor rooms in buildings the organizations themselves erected. In 1893, the Independent Order of Oddfellows, instituted in Martinsville in 1867, built the impressive, three-story business block at the northeast corner of Morgan and Jefferson Street. The Improved Order of Redmen built their own lodge hall, the WIGWAM at 55-65 West Morgan Street in 1908.

IOOF Hall (1893)

Redmen's Hall, the Wigwam (1908) 

The growth of the fraternal lodges reflected the growth of the Martinsville population, which proceeded at a fairly rapid pace from the time the first railroad reached the town, nearly doubling each decade between 1850 and 1880, when it finally reached 1,942. After that point, the rate of increase of the population declined until the onset of the sanitarium era. By 1900, after seven sanitariums had been built, the population was 4,038. After 1900, the rate of increase again declined. In 1940, the Census recorded 5,900 residents. With the gradual close of the sanitariums throughout the 1940s--the last to close was the Home Lawn in 1968--the population stabilized.

Today, the Martinsville Commercial Historic District is a vital commercial area comprised of buildings constructed between the years c.1847 to 1935. Professional trades have largely replaced earlier retail businesses, with numerous attorneys' offices and abstract and title companies plus print shops, taverns and various retail businesses clustered around the Morgan County Courthouse.

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Morgan County Historic Preservation Society
P. O. Box 1377
Martinsville, IN  46151

This site was last updated 08/09/06